Beating Broke

Personal Finance from the Broke Perspective

3 Ways Young Homeowners Can Save $3745 (at least) Each Year

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If you recently bought your first home let me congratulate you. This is possibly the very best time to buy real estate that you’ll ever see in your lifetime. You made a smart move. And because you are a smart real estate investor, I know you’ll be interested in taking advantage of the following 3 ways young homeowners can save even more “moolah”.

1. Home Warranty

I owned a home warranty program for years and it was a waste of money. Of course it felt great not to have to worry about running into major unexpected expenses, but the cost just didn’t justify it. First of all, you are stuck with any repair person the home protection company sends out. Next, the deductible you have to pay is often pretty close to the amount you’d have to pay to a contractor of your own choosing. Last, when you do have a major repair, you are stuck (again) with whoever the company sends out unless you are willing to go through a great deal of red tape.

You’re always responsible for upgrades, code changes and any problems associated with misuse or poor maintenance. I cancelled my home protection plan several years ago and it turned out to be a fantastic decision. If you follow my lead on this, you’ll save at least $600 a year.

2. Life Insurance

If you are a young homeowner you might have a young family or plan on having one. As a result, you definitely need life insurance. But when it comes to term life vs. whole life – play it smart. Term life is your best friend. It’s cheap and it does the job. It’s true that at some point (20 or 30 years down the road) your term insurance will expire. But by that time, you may not need life insurance anyway. Term life is so much cheaper than whole life that you can take that savings and invest it. This way probably you’ll have much more than the whole life promises.

One of the biggest problems with whole life (and I feel it’s criminal) is that agents sell you the whole life you can afford because it pays them a whole lot more commission. (Maybe that’s why they call it “whole” life.) And because it buys a great deal less insurance than term, people end up dangerously under-insured. You could save several thousands of dollars each year and have better coverage just by having term instead of whole life insurance. Look into this ASAP.

3. Good Credit Score

Because you are a young homeowner, you’ll be using your credit for a very long time. And you might have to lean on that plastic a lot right now to pay for all that new furniture and appliances. If you able to get even a slightly better credit score, you might end up savings a bundle every month. That’s because a higher credit score will help you get lower interest rates on credit cards and mortgages.

Find out what your score is and make sure there are no errors. If there are mistakes, fix them. You can easily do most of this without paying a cent. You can even get your credit score for free and sign up for services that provide updates whenever there is a change to your rating. This has helped me a great deal.

As a young homeowner you might be facing some pretty hefty expenses and that can be daunting. Take these 3 steps. Dump the home protection plan. Get rid of your whole life insurance and buy term instead. Finally make sure your credit score is as high as possible.

Will you save $3745? I don’t know. You could save a lot more. You’ll never know until you start taking action.

What are the biggest expenses you face as a young homeowner? What have you done to reduce those costs?

This was a guest post written by Neal Frankle. He is a Certified Financial Planner ® and owns Wealth Pilgrim – a great personal finance blog. He writes extensively about ways to help people make smart financial decisions. One of his most in-depth posts was his review of CIT Bank.

Cost of Living Makes a Big Difference

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Where you live, and how much it costs to live there can make a huge difference in what your finances look like.  The differences in the cost of living between someplace like Seattle, or San Francisco and where I live, in North Dakota are stark.  Oftentimes, when you see someone using a calculator of some sort for your retirement “number” there are some assumptions that get made.  People simply assume that they are talking to people who have the same economic circumstances.  They also assume that a 20 year old male is going to need the same amount in their retirement account as the next 20 year old male.

Now, let me tell you something that will knock your socks off.  At least, it will if you live in one of those bigger cities.  Me and my family of 4 (+1 dog) do just fine on less than $70,000 a year.  We’re not extremists, living in a small trailer in a campground somewhere, eating only rice and beans all the time either.  Could we survive on less?  I know we could.  We have debt; student loans, car loans, medical bills, a mortgage, and your regular monthly utilities and such.  But, the cost of living here makes it not only doable, but affordable to live on that amount.

There are some things that cost about the same everywhere.  New and used cars, for instance.  A new pickup here still costs about the same $40,000 (depending on model and features, of course).  Other, more universal goods, like books, computers, and pretty much anything you can buy off the internet, still cost about the same.  But, for many of the other standard items, we’re a lot closer to the source.  A pound of hamburger is only about $3.50.  A pack of cigarettes is only about $4.50.  Compare that to the prices in someplace like New York, and you start to see the benefits.

Where the real difference is, is in the local goods.  Property being the big one.  I’ve compared a few times in different markets.  After the real estate crash a few years ago, prices have gotten a little better, but still aren’t all that close.  We own a 2+1 bed, 1 bath, house with no garage on a good sized city lot.  When we bought it, back in 2004, we paid a little over $46,000.  Some of you reading this likely drive cars that you paid more for.  The houses value has gone up some over the years, but the last time we had it valued, which was in 2011, it was worth $57,000.  I truly hope there aren’t too many of you driving cars that you paid more than that for, but I’d bet there’s one or two.  Comparable houses in some of the larger markets usually are priced closer to $250,000.  If I do the quick and dirty math on that, the mortgage payment would be $2,040 more in one of those larger markets.

I don’t have any real way to compare the utilities, but I have the suspicion that we pay less there too.  Our house is older (c. 1950), so it’s not the most energy efficient house out there, but we still only pay about $90 a  month for our electricity, and about $35-$40 for our natural gas a month.  Water, sewage and garbage are lumped together, and usually end up around $50 a month.

Another huge way that our cost of living is different is in travel costs.  I don’t mean vacations.  For most of that, we’re far enough from a major travel hub that it is usually a little more expensive.  What I’m talking about is commuting costs.  Last week, I slept through my alarm.  I’m supposed to be at work at 8.  I woke up at 7:55.  I skipped the shower, but I was able to get up at 7:55, get dressed, quickly help get the kids started getting dressed, and still made it to work at 8:15.  How many of you would just call in sick because you’d have missed the whole first half of the work day?  When I time my drive to work, it’s somewhere around 5-10 minutes depending on traffic.  And, when I talk about traffic, what I really mean is if there’s anyone coming when I have to make a turn onto a  street and I have to wait ’til they pass. I usually have to fill my 12 gallon tank with gas about once a month.  Sometimes I stretch it to 5 or 6 weeks.  And then there’s the savings on wear and tear on the vehicle.  I rarely put more than 12,000 miles on a car in a year.  That makes it really easy to keep a car for 10 or more years!

Now, I’m not telling you all of this just to boast about how cheaply I can live here.  Really, I just wanted to make you aware of the differences.  What you perceive as “normal” sometimes isn’t.  The same is true for me.  What is a good paying job here, would be considered a poorly paying job in a big city.  People who live in those big cities usually have a lot of amenities that come along with those extra costs.  Choices in movie theaters.  Professional sports teams.  Entertainment venues that can hold more than 30,000 or so people.  They pay for those extra amenities in extra costs that aren’t always monetary.  Crime rates, crowding, and more competition for jobs to name a few.

How does your cost of living compare?  How big is the city that you live in?  (for reference, the city I live in is about 15,000 people.)

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Dollar Cost Averaging; Not Just For Stocks

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Most of the time, when you hear or read the phrase “Dollar Cost Averaging”, it’s being applied to the stock market.  It’s the practice of buying a set amount of stock at a regular interval whereby the average cost per share of stock ends up normalizing.  So, if you buy stock high one time, and low the next, and then high, your average cost is going to be lower than the high cost and more than the low cost.  So long as the stock doesn’t pull an Enron, and slowly increases in value, you come out ahead in the long term.

But, does it have to apply to just stocks?  Absolutely not.  It really can apply to anything that you buy on a regular basis.  Gas for example.  A couple of weeks ago, I filled up the car at about $3.89 a gallon.  Today, as I drove by the gas station, it was at $3.69 a gallon.  I filled up at $3.89, so I don’t really need any gas right now, but I seriously considered stopping and topping off the tank to bring the overall cost of the gas I bought over the last several weeks down a few pennies.

There might be some argument that dollar cost averaging doesn’t work very well for consumables.  After all, if I had bought a few gallons at $3.69, my overall reserves of gas would not increase.  I’ve already consumed those few gallons that I paid $3.89 a gallon for.  But, I would have increased the total amount I had bought, and the average price would have been less than $3.89.

Dollar cost averaging works especially well for things that regularly fluctuate in price.  If you’re building a stockpile of food in your basement, it’s chili bean season.  There’s sales all over the place for chili beans.  Now, you could buy 50 or so cans at the sale price, but you might be tight on storage space.  Or, they might expire before you get to use them all.  Instead, you can use dollar cost averaging to buy slightly more than you might normally buy, and bring down the average cost of the ones you have to buy later in the season when they aren’t on sale any more.

O.K.  This does seem a little silly.  After all, who’s going to go out and figure out the average cost of a can of chili beans in the basement?  But, there’s a point in there.  There’s a certain rationality in buying things in set increments over time rather than trying to time the market (or chili bean sale) and buying a whole lot of the item at once.  How many times have you bought something only to find that it was on sale the next week?

And, don’t forget that the same principle goes the other way.  There are many normal things that we do on an everyday basis that can apply to the stock market too!  When we shop, we tend to stick to the brand names we know.  Even if those brand names are generic names.  Go far enough out of town and stop at a grocery store and try and convince yourself that the generic brand at that store is the same as the generic at home.  It takes a bit of thought!  Sticking to companies (brands) that you know when investing can be beneficial too.  More often than not, those brands and companies are companies that have been around for a long time and built a certain amount of trust in the marketplace.  They’re unlikely to just be an overnight sensation, or to quickly fall from favor.  In short, they’re stalwart investing options.

What other everyday habits do we all have that can be carried over to the stock market?  And what other stock market habits do we have that can carry over to everyday life?

img credit:Nick Harris1, on Flickr